mercoledì 17 aprile 2013

House of Montague _ Interview with Martin Ahn

Design minimalista, vocazione cosmopolita, qualità italiana sono le caratteristiche che contraddistinguono House of Montague, brand danese che produce scarpa d'alta qualità. Le linee sono semplici, ma parlano da se, sapientemente strutturate e dall'ottima calzata House of Montague si prestano ad essere indossate in differenti contesti e occasione. Fanno parte dei brand che ho incontrato a Pitti e di cui ho iniziato a seguirne lo stile; di seguito vi propongo una piccola intervista con Martin Ahn designer del brand.

When and why was House of Montague born?

House of Montague was started as a side project while I was still attending FIT in New York. It was basically just my own outlet next to the projects we did for school, which wasn’t always just as exciting. After returning back home to Denmark, after nearly three years in New York, I decided to start House of Montague as a business since it occupied so much of my time and it felt like the right thing to do even at the time, the world was in such economic turmoil.

What are brand's the characteristics?

We attempt to translate our unique approach to the Scandinavian design philosophy by keeping each style minimalistic but at the same time adding just enough of details and a hint of international flair. Quality is a pivotal condition for each sneaker. It is something we are very proud of. We have our entire production in Portugal, usin supreme Italian leathers. All of our pieces are fully lined with buttersoft calfskin leather. Our special relation with our craftsman, make House of Montague a special case. We do not compromise when it comes to picking our the materials, construction or individual components.

Last january the brand was at Pitti, what means Pitti for you?

This June will be the fourth time our brand shall be exhibiting at the Pitti Uomo fair. Pitti is a highly dynamic and important fair to us. It allows us to showcase our products amongst the heavyweights of our industry and therefore puts our product to the test. For the competition is fierce with regards to design, quality and brand acknowledgement. Personally, I am just very pleased to be able to present my brand among designers and obrands that have inspired me and whose work I admire.

Can you tell me the mood of the spring/summer 2013 collection?

The mood of the SS 13 collection depicts a clash of two styles, me and former business partner. His style were more clean and elegant, hence the high and low tops in the smooth and clean nappa leather, combined with my style which is a bit more playful. Therefore we have incorporated some creative touches such as the bubblegum pink shoes, the velvet loafers with gold embroidery and the popping colors in the suedeshoes. The spring / summer 2013 was the most personal collection to date because it represented us both in every detail and every shoe. 

The fall/winter 2013-2014 is a more clean and basic collection, the shoes's model dont' have the tassels, the material are important; where does the inspiration take from? 

The fall/winter collection 2013/14 was inspired by the historic gold-rush era that once struck the American west coast and a lot of citizens in the US. In the collection we have incorporated a lot of classics and what you could call basic elements from menswear. The collection is divided into a basic part and a more elaborate part. The clean part of the collection boasts small details and finishes, such as perforated prints, waxed toecaps, padded tongues and combination of different leathers. This is in fact a salute to the hardworking man, who doesn’t flaunt his wealth but keeps to himself and enjoys the quality of his possessions. 
The other side of the collection, thus represents the more flashy and wilder side of those who struck gold during the era. Lush pony hair, patent leather and gold foiled leather, are all about having fun with your designs, which is very important when creating something and working hard. Therefore, for me it is all about finding a balance with in the collection and sticking to your gut feeling about what will work. Our sneakers compliment each other instead of stealing focus away from one another. In the end it is about updating classics, that should be a part of every gentlemens wardrobe: A tennis shoe, a derby, a desert boot, basketball shoe and our newest edition to the collection, a snaffle loafer.

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